Thin Brick Tile Installation Instructions
Thin Brick Veneer Installation Video from Vintage Brick Salvage
(If you don't see the video below you can click here to see it on Google videos)
Reclaimed brick veneer tile installation
materials list. With the exception of our reclaimed brick
tile, everything you need is available at any home improvement
store:
1/4" X
1/4" notch trowel
Gloves
Masons mix mortar for grout
you can buy this premixed or mix 1 part portland cement to 3 parts sand
Thin set adhesive ( pre-mixed or dry but it better be good)
Brick laying trowel
Tuck pointing trowel
Mixing bucket
Mixing
blade for power drill (optional)
Gloves
Tile Cutting saw with diamond blade
Wax pencil for marking cuts
Tape measure
Level
Chalk line and chalk
Tile spacers (optional)
Safety Glasses
Ear Protection
Dust Mask
We like to install our tiles using an acrylic modified thin set mortar, although a ceramic tile mastic can be used as well. On a wall, it is easiest to install
with a mortar that is somewhat firm, so the tiles will stay
in place while the adhesive sets up. If the bricks sag due to to "runny" of a mortar, I have also had some people
report they have had success using a touch of construction adhesives to tack the brick for the short term while the mortar sets.
Note that these instructions are a guide, different
tile installers have different preferences on the methods they
use.
Make
sure your wall is sound and dry. Snap chalk lines to guide yourself,
usually every courses of brick.
The tiles are 2 1/4" wide, so with a standard 3/8" mortar
joint snap these lines every 7 7/8". Depending on the
height of your installation, you may want to fudge the height of
the grout line measurement + or - to insure that you
will not have any cuts horizontally for the courses at the ceiling or
floor.
Spread thin set mortar or mastic using a
notch trowel.
For best results use a thin set with acrylic additive and test it
to be sure it will hold the tiles in place. Too runny of a
mortar will allow the bricks to slip. Install your tile. Cut tile for
edges and corners using a wet tile saw with a diamond blade. If you are
using single piece "L: shaped corners, you should work from the corners
out. Corners may also
be mitred 45 degrees using matching brick, or overlapped.
Once the tiles are installed, make sure
the mortar is completely dry before grouting with either sanded tile grout,
or sand mix mortar (the same stuff they use to lay bricks). Use a
pointing trowel as shown in my installation movie or a grout bag to
minimize the amount of mortar that you have to clean from the surface of
the tiles. Clean the bricks as you
go, changing your water often.
After grouting the bricks may be sealed
if you would like, although for walls other than backslashes this is
probably not necessary.Use either a penetrating stone sealer,
or a terra-cotta sealer. Some sealers will darken the brick and add a
sheen, be sure to test your sealer on a loose tile to be sure the results
are satisfactory.
Reclaimed Brick Flooring Installation
Instructions
Make sure your sub floor is clean, sound and
dry. Snap chalk lines
to guide yourself, usually every three tiles or so. The tiles are 3 5/8 wide, add in
your grout lines depending on the width you would like to space
these.
Spread thin set mortar using a 1/4" X 1/4" notch trowel. For best results
use a thin set mortar with acrylic additive. Install your tile. Cut tile for edges and corners
using a wet tile saw with a diamond blade.
Once the tiles are installed, make sure the
adhesive is completely dry before grouting with either sanded tile grout,
or sand mix mortar (the same stuff they use to lay bricks).
Clean the bricks as you go with
a sponge, changing water often.
Any residual haze may be removed by
cleaning with a muriatic acid solution, although this is not usually
necesarry.
After grouting the bricks must be
sealed. If using a
terra-cotta type acrylic or waxed based sealer, the tiles need only be dry
for a day or two before sealing.
If you are going to use a polyurethane high gloss sealer, be
certain that the bricks are completely dry before sealing. The oil based, non yellowing
polyurethane's work better than the water based sealers. It is best to wait at least 3
weeks before sealing with a poly; a moisture meter is helpful to determine
that all of the water is out of the brick. Foot traffic is fine during the
drying time. If polyurethane
is applied before all moisture is out of the brick, there is danger that
efflorescence (salts in the brick) can migrate to the surface and cause
whitening between the brick and the sealer. Follow all instructions by the
manufacturer of the sealant, especially turning off the pilot lights on
heaters and water heaters when an oil based sealer is being
applied.
Enjoy your reclaimed brick floor for years
to come!
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